Rapid React Shooter

This is a pick-up/shooter for the 2022 rapid react season. This device will both pick up and shoot the roughly 9.25 in diameter ball (cargo) of the game the files referenced below are located at https://grabcad.com/library/rapid-react-3/details?folder_id=11939286

Proper material to print this items include HIPS, ABS, PETG and possibly a hard Nylon for all structural parts. The “tire” referenced later is to be printed in TPU. All parts will fit on a printer with a build plate size of 300×300 or bigger. The biggest part – the housing – is 283×283. The parts printed below have been printed in HIPS and TPU on an anycubic Chiron with a .8 nozzle. 0.4mm layer height, 1mm outside perimeter width 1.25mm inside perimeters, 6 perimeters 100% infill. Except the tire – the TPU part that was printed 2 perimeters of .88mm and 10% infill.

For the body you will need to print 2 of the file ShooterHousing.stl and 1 of ShooterHousing_Center.stl. You then will connect them with 1/2 in square aluminum or steel tubing and M5 or 8/32 bolts of the proper length . The front and back square cut outs also get 1/2 in square tubing as reinforcement

Shooter Vertical
Shooter Body Vertical
Shooter Body Horizontal
Shooter body Horizontal

Then assemble each Shooter hub/wheel assembly. As they are getting most of the stress make sure they are printed with 100% infill (except the TPU tire

Motor Holder
Motor Holder

File Name: MotorHolder_small.stl. Mount CIM, miniCIM or NEO to the 3DP bracket as shown and press fit a 6805 bearing

Bearing Holder
Bearing Holder

Then Press fit the 6805 bearing into the Bottom Bearing holder

Next cuta 1/2 in square tube to fit flush With Hub_small.stl and Hub_smalltop.stl and drill the 2 holed. The bolt in Hub_small will not get a nut a M5-20mm will cut its own thread into the plastic and will be held in place by the tire

Hub_small with 1/2in square tube
Hub_small with 1/2in square tube

The top of Hub and Hub_small should make a tight fit in the 6805 bearing. In case you have some overprint use some sandpaper or other abrasive to make it a tight fit.

Hub and tire
Hub and tire

The Tires File is ShooterTire_small.stl. It is to be printed in TPU with about 2mm shell/wall/floor/Ceiling thickness. The whole assembly is slotted so it can be adjusted and shimmed to give the proper “squish” to the tire. After finding the proper “squish” 2 holes can be drilled through bracket, shim and square stock to properly fix it to the shooter housing

Shooter Wheel/Tire Assembly
Shooter Wheel/Tire Assembly

The whole Shooter Wheel/Tire assembly with motor and bering holder ready for assembly to the body. As both motors are to always spin in opposite directions the 2 motor wires could be connected red to black, black to red and then as the bottom of the “Y” to one motor controller

Next Mount the motor for the elevation. In this case either 1 or 2 PG-71 old style with 10mm round keyed shaft (we have a bunch and none of the newer kind) is used. The heads of the M4 bolts are recessed and should fit most machine or socket head screws. Press fit the 6805 Bearing(s) above that. Depending on where you mount the motor(s) you might need 1 or 2 PG-71 motor or less if you got a higher ratio gearbox. The nice thing of the PGs is that they have a quadrature encoder included that make elevation positioning possible in multiple positions

PG Motor with Pillowblock
PG Motor with Pillowblock
PG Motor with Pillowblock and 6805 Bearing
PG Motor with Pillowblock and 6805 Bearing

The Following is 2 of the 3 possible Mounting positions for the elevation Motor(s) in this case using one of the PG to square tube adapters. (Note from experience smaller then 1/2in HEX in HEX format skips easy in plastic under high torque. The plastic is quite capable to stall the motor on a 4mm key but not on a small hex)

Shooter Mount Center
Shooter Mount Center
Shooter Mount End
Shooter Mount End

There are multiple Dogleg assemblies/Motor Holders in the above folder. Which ones to select depends on how the shooter mechanism is going to be attached to the frame and what will fit without extending beyond the legal parameters. The sample holders in the folder are for the PG motors above and for Mini Limit switches like this one

They will mount to the hole pattern on the Shooter body.

Parts needed for the above assembly

less than 500g of TPU, about 3-4kg of HIPS,ABS or PETG, 15 to 20 ft of 1/2 in 16 gauge square tubing, Assortment of Nuts and bolts. preferably M4 and M5 with Nylock nuts and/or whatever the motors need.

The operation is as follows

To Shoot (ball assumed loaded and trigger dogleg in the back parallel to back plane of shooter body. )

1.) Spin up wheels (CIMs) takes about 1 sec to full speed

2.) asure proper elevation and aim (can happen simultaneously to 1)

3.) have intake dogleg out of the way in the “all up” position

4.) activate the trigger dogleg to feed the ball into the spinning wheels

To take in Ball

1.) have the trigger dogleg parallel to the back plane

2.) Spin up shooter motors to about 10-15 % max speed in reverse (oposite from shooting direction

3.) Aproach ball – drive into it and if necessary have an intake dogleg “help” the ball in

Depending on mount position and angle and driver skill from past years experience especially stronghold ball pickup is quite possible without a front dogleg with a good driver . Front doglegs no matter what they are made of often fall victim in collisions with other robots.

If the robot is used on a standard Andymark frame without a cutout then the only way to mount it is from the rear and the pick up angle becomes quite steep and a “dust pan” type ramp needs to be attached to the front or a front intake dogleg is advisable

The folder also contains the bigger 4 inch tires and hubs with motor mounts and an alternate shooter made out of 1/2in tube and 3dp Gussets. This shooter was not completed and is considered “work in progress”

4 in Wheel Shooter
4 in Wheel Shooter

Besides the stls the folder also includes all the inventor (.ipt) files

Printing the Prusa Face Shield

This is to maybe help some printing them faster. To share what we learned. The mask is at the narrowest point 2.4mm thick that is why prusa recommends to do 3 perimeters (3*.4 = 1.2 and that *2 = 2.4) So with any nozzle you have up to 2x is width that you can relieably print so first establish your max extrusion rate as mike did in a recent video or I outline in my tutorial here https://grabcad.com/martin.pirringer-2/tutorials read the one on Volumetric E and the one on bigger nozzles if you have a choice of nozzles. If you use Prusa Slicer/Slic3r just enter that max Volumetric E in the apropriate fields and you are done. Next calculate the layer height apropriate for your printer with most it should be a multiple of .040mm and keep it between 40-60% of nozzle diameter. Then take a layer width where you can get to 1.2 mm so

.4/.5 nozzle Layerheight .24-.32 (tested on PLA) #perimeters 2 Perimeter width either .6 on all Perimeters or we got one running .48 outside perimeters, .72 inside perimeters. 0.8 on infill
.7/.8 nozzle layer height .4mm (tested HIPS) Perimeter width 1.2 on all. #perimeters 1.
we have no one with a .6 but I might be tempted to run the .8 profile with a .36 layer height

If you do not use prusa slicer take your max Vol E and divide by (perimeter width * layer height) And make sure it does not exceed what your printer can handle. Like if its 60 that your printer can handle then the max speed you set is 60 even if the above equation gives you 80 or 100.

One problem we ran into that as those parts are rather thin sometimes with some material one warped up a little at some point so we added a Brim – the brim is a pain especially on the pegs in the front so I broke out inventor and put “lillipads” at some locations. As you have camfers in the design and with printing with a .8 and 1.2mm layer width a lot of them just had 1 bead making contact with buildplate and on occasion the Nozzle left a little retraction tab and on layer 2 it pulled it off the plate the files are called FSChiron here https://grabcad.com/library/face-shield-11 The files are called FSChiron and the x2,x3,x6 is just how many I combined both print the top and bottom in one shot here is some pics
This is after 2 layers

And this is about 5ish hours later when finished 2
With the print popped off . Those 14mm liily pads are quite easy to remove.

If you want to Help check for details on how at www.vernonrobotics.com

Prushashlisha FRC team 1989 2020 build season pics

Our Season has ben canceled due to COVID-19 so I figured I make a post about our robot that we printed on our 2 Anycubic Chirons. But first some info. The team decided to name the robot Prushashlisha probably cause that is what it sounds like when I say Prusa Slicer which is the software we use to turn our inventor generated STL’s into gcode to print it. Our goal was to have our robot shoot and climb and we pretty much achieved those goals even though – unfortunately – not battle tested. And there are ongoing improvements. So without further ado…

First test with the shooter mounted to the robot
First climb test – at that time without limit switches
GT2 3d printed pulley next to aluminum one – 3DP so we can have custom sizes
Ball intake with 3DP 2.5in Mecanum wheels
View at the Electronics board through the conveyor
Look down the climber at the 3dp winch powered by a Cim and toughbox mini the winch is 50mm in diameter and so is the 78 tooth GT2 pulley part of it. The GT2 belt deploys the hook the rope does the lifting
Look at one of the climbing hooks on top of the robot. Also view of 1/2in conduit to protect the cabeling
Full view of robot before adding braces and extra stiffening in case we had to play D (as we had plenty of weight left to play with
Close up at conveyor and laser cut 1/8 in aluminum plate for added stiffness and lowering center of gravity
First test hook broken to get some data and to inspect the inside to verify the quality of us printing “solid” that means as close as possible as you can come with an FDM printer to injection molding. Nice clean break with a little trailing edge due to the camfer as it should. All in all an indication that the print has great layer adhesion both vertically and horizontally
Winch with 78 thooth GT2 pulley and ratchet teeth before cleanup bench tested to hold 300lb
View at the bare frame with wheel (skateboard) 3DP HIPS and aluminum (1/2in 3/32 wall square tube) composite We later replaced the rear wheels with omni wheels
Frame pieces before assembly
One of the toughbox mini axle holders being printed (about 30% done)

Overall there is about 14 kg of HIPS in the 3DP parts. All parts have been printed with a .8 nozzle. We used a little over 40 kg of HIPS so far this season some went into prior iterations and tests and some into spare parts. We have almost a 2nd robot in spare parts – at least regarding the plastic pieces. The whole robot without bumpers and battery currently weighs 116 lb. all the inventor files and STLs are at https://grabcad.com/library/frc1989-infinite-recharge-1 . Also check out the tutorials in regards to dialing in filaments and selecting nozzles at https://workbench.grabcad.com/martin.pirringer-2/tutorials

The Prusa slicer config file is in the root “infinite recharge” root at the above grabcad link